Everest VS Dhaulagiri: Which 8000er to Climb First?

So you're staring at your expedition gear wondering: "Everest or Dhaulagiri?" Big decision. Massive.

Every serious mountaineer eventually faces this crossroads between the world's highest peak and the seventh tallest mountain. Both are legendary 8000ers that demand everything you've got – but they'll test you in completely different ways.

I've guided climbers up both Everest and Dhaulagiri, and I'll tell you right now – choosing the wrong mountain first can be the difference between summit success and a very expensive disappointment.

In the next few minutes, you'll discover exactly which of these giants matches your experience level, what specific skills each demands, and the honest truth about which one gives you better odds of standing on top.

But first, let me show you the critical mistake that sends most first-time 8000er climbers home empty- handed...

Understanding 8000ers: The Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge

What Makes Mountains Over 8000m Special

The magic of 8000ers isn't just about their height. At these extreme elevations, we're talking about the "death zone" - that intimidating realm above 8000 meters where the oxygen level is roughly a third of what we breathe at sea level. Our bodies literally start to die up there.

We've seen countless climbers face this harsh reality. The thin air forces your breathing rate to triple, your heart pounds, and simple movements become exhausting. And the weather? Brutal. Temperatures dropping to -40°C, hurricane-force winds, and storms that appear out of nowhere.

The Significance of Everest and Dhaulagiri in Mountaineering History

Everest and Dhaulagiri stand as titans in our climbing world. Everest captured global imagination after Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary's historic first summit in 1953. Standing at 8,848m, it's the ultimate mountaineering trophy.

Dhaulagiri, though less famous, holds its own fierce reputation. First conquered in 1960 by a Swiss- Austrian team, this 8,167m giant was actually once thought to be the world's highest peak. Its name literally means "White Mountain" in Sanskrit, and we consider its northern face one of the most challenging climbs on earth.

Why Climbers Aspire to Conquer 8000ers

Why do we keep going back? It's simple - climbing 8000ers represents the pinnacle of human endurance.

There's nothing quite like standing where so few have stood, looking down at clouds below your feet. The journey strips away everything but the essentials - each breath, each step becomes meaningful.

For many of our clients, it's about joining an exclusive club. Only about 40 people have climbed all fourteen 8000ers - fewer than have been to space. Others chase the transformation that comes from pushing beyond perceived limits.

Mount Everest: The World's Highest Peak

Key Facts and Geographic Profile

Mount Everest stands tall at 29,032 feet (8,849 meters), making it the undisputed champion of mountains. We've been guiding expeditions here for years and can confirm - nothing compares to standing on the roof of the world.

Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, Everest is part of the majestic Mahalangur Himal sub-range. The Nepali side (South) is known as Sagarmatha, while Tibetans call the North side Chomolungma, meaning "Goddess Mother of the World."

The mountain formed roughly 60 million years ago when the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates collided. This ongoing collision actually makes Everest grow about 4mm taller each year!

Weather conditions are brutal. Temperatures can plummet to -76°F (-60°C), and hurricane-force winds regularly exceed 100 mph. The summit's oxygen level is only about one-third of what we breathe at sea level.

Standard Climbing Routes and Their Challenges

We primarily use two main routes for our Everest expeditions:

South Col Route (Nepal): The most popular path. Climbers face the treacherous Khumbu Icefall right out of Base Camp, navigate the Western Cwm's scorching heat, scale the Lhotse Face, and cross the exposed Yellow Band before tackling the Hillary Step and final summit push.

North Ridge Route (Tibet): Generally less crowded but technically more demanding. The route avoids the Khumbu Icefall but presents sustained exposure at high altitude with the Three Steps - massive rock obstacles above 28,000 feet where even breathing becomes a herculean task.

Each route has its unique challenges:

• Khumbu Icefall: Constantly shifting ice blocks the size of buildings
• Death Zone (above 26,000ft): Where human bodies begin shutting down
• Extreme weather: Sudden storms can trap climbers for days 
• Technical sections: Requiring vertical climbing on ice and rock in extreme conditions

Commercial Infrastructure and Support Systems

We've developed robust systems to maximize safety and success on Everest. Base Camp resembles a small city during climbing season, complete with:

• Fully-stocked kitchen tents serving nutritious meals 
• Communication centers with satellite internet 
• Medical tents staffed with high-altitude doctors 
• Solar power systems for electricity
• Private sleeping tents with comfortable mattresses

Higher on the mountain, we establish four camps stocked with oxygen bottles, emergency supplies, and cooking equipment. Our expert Sherpa team fixes ropes on dangerous sections and carries extra oxygen.

Modern technology has transformed Everest climbing. We use satellite phones, weather forecasting systems, and GPS trackers to monitor each climber's location and vital signs. Some expeditions even deploy drones for reconnaissance and emergency support.

Success and Fatality Rates for First-Time Climbers

First-time Everest climbers face sobering statistics. Our records show about a 50% summit success rate for first-timers compared to 60-70% for experienced mountaineers. Much depends on preparation, route conditions, and weather windows.

Fatality rates have improved dramatically with better equipment and protocols. Historical data shows approximately 1 death per 20 successful summits, but modern commercial expeditions like ours maintain much safer records.

Key factors affecting first-time climber outcomes:

• Previous high-altitude experience (climbs above 23,000ft) 
• Physical conditioning and mental fortitude 
• Willingness to turn back when necessary 
• Quality of expedition support team
• Oxygen usage strategy

We're proud of our safety record. By requiring pre-Everest climbs and implementing strict screening, we've maintained success rates well above industry averages for first-timers.

Cost Considerations for an Everest Expedition

Climbing Everest isn't cheap - we won't sugarcoat it. A properly supported expedition typically costs between $40,000-$100,000, depending on services included.

Our standard package ($65,000) covers: 

• Climbing permit ($11,000 for Nepal side) 
• Sherpa support (1:1 ratio for summit day) 
• Oxygen (4-7 bottles per climber)
• All camps and equipment
• Food and accommodation 
• Transportation within Nepal 
• Medical support and insurance

Additional costs to budget for:

• Personal climbing gear ($8,000-$10,000) 
• International flights ($1,500-$3,000)
• Training climbs before Everest ($5,000-$15,000) 
• Extra oxygen if needed ($500-$600 per bottle) 
• Personal satellite communication ($500-$1,500)

We always recommend a contingency fund of $5,000-$10,000 for unexpected expenses or if weather requires extending your stay. Remember, attempting to cut corners on Everest can be not just disappointing but dangerous. The mountain demands proper respect and preparation.

Dhaulagiri: The White Mountain

Essential Statistics and Unique Features

Dhaulagiri stands proud at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet), ranking as the seventh highest mountain in the world. We've always been captivated by its imposing presence in the Himalayan landscape. The name "Dhaulagiri" literally means "White Mountain" in Sanskrit, and trust us, it lives up to its name with its dazzling snow-covered slopes.

What makes Dhaulagiri special? For starters, it's part of a massive mountain range extending 120km, with Dhaulagiri I being the tallest peak. The mountain boasts a remarkable 7km vertical rise above local terrain, creating one of the most dramatic mountain faces you'll ever see.

Unlike Everest, Dhaulagiri wasn't conquered until 1960, making it one of the last 8000ers to be climbed. The Swiss-Austrian expedition that first summited used an innovative approach - they actually brought a small aircraft to establish camps, which later crashed (without casualties).

Primary Routes and Technical Difficulties

The Northeast Ridge (normal route) is what we typically guide our climbers on. Don't be fooled by the term "normal" though - this route presents serious technical challenges including:

• The infamous "Eiger" - a 300-meter near-vertical ice wall 
• Multiple avalanche-prone sections requiring careful timing 
• Technical ice climbing at high altitude (Grade IV-V) 
• Narrow ridges with significant exposure

The other major route is the challenging Northwest Ridge, which demands even stronger technical climbing skills. Both routes require navigating through the treacherous Dhaulagiri icefall, a maze of house-sized ice blocks and deep crevasses.

Less Crowded Experience and Authentic Adventure

Dhaulagiri sees roughly 50-70 climbers annually - a fraction of Everest's numbers. This means we can offer you a more pristine mountain experience. Camp sites aren't overcrowded, fixed ropes don't have queues, and summit day doesn't feel like a highway.

This solitude comes with real benefits. The mountain feels like a genuine wilderness adventure. You'll experience authentic Himalayan climbing without the circus atmosphere sometimes found on more popular peaks.

The Base Camp itself sits in a remote valley, requiring a beautiful trek through traditional villages untouched by mass tourism. Many of our clients tell us this approach trek was almost as meaningful as the climb itself.

Support Structure and Expedition Requirements

We provide a robust expedition structure for Dhaulagiri, though it differs from Everest in several key ways:

• Smaller team sizes (typically 4-8 climbers) 1:1 
• Sherpa-to-climber ratio on summit pushes
• Fewer fixed camps (usually 3 compared to Everest's 4-5)
• Limited or no supplemental oxygen options 

Prerequisites for joining our Dhaulagiri expeditions include:

• Previous 7000m expedition experience (mandatory) 
• Strong ice climbing skills (Grade III minimum) 
• Excellent cardiovascular fitness 
• Cold tolerance and self-sufficiency

The expedition typically runs 45-50 days, allowing proper acclimatization. Our Dhaulagiri permits cost less than Everest's, but the technical demands make it suitable only for serious mountaineers with solid high-altitude experience.

Comparative Analysis: Everest vs. Dhaulagiri

Technical Difficulty and Required Climbing Skills

Comparing Everest and Dhaulagiri is like comparing two different beasts in the mountaineering world. We've guided countless expeditions to both peaks, and the technical challenges are distinct.

Everest presents fewer technical sections than Dhaulagiri. The standard South Col route on Everest requires basic mountaineering skills, with the Hillary Step (before its collapse) and the Khumbu Icefall being the most challenging obstacles. We find most climbers can manage these sections with proper guidance and fixed ropes.

Dhaulagiri, however, demands more technical prowess. Its Northeast Ridge route features steep ice walls, exposed ridges, and complex glacier navigation. We always tell our clients: if you can't comfortably handle 50-degree ice slopes with a heavy pack, you're not ready for Dhaulagiri.

Here's a quick breakdown:

Physical Conditioning and Acclimatization Demands

Both mountains push human endurance to its limits, but in different ways. We've seen super-fit marathoners struggle on Everest while methodical climbers excel.

Everest's higher altitude (8,848m vs. 8,167m) means the final push happens in what we call the "death zone" where oxygen levels are critically low. Your body literally begins to die at this altitude. The longer time spent above 8,000m on Everest makes oxygen management crucial.

Dhaulagiri's more sustained technical climbing requires greater overall strength and endurance. We find climbers need to maintain technical competence while fatigued - something that's harder to train for.

Acclimatization protocols differ too. On Everest, we typically use a three-rotation strategy before summit push. Dhaulagiri often allows for a more condensed schedule due to its lower height, but the physical toll is no less demanding.

Weather Patterns and Optimal Climbing Seasons

Weather windows make or break expedition success. We've spent decades studying these patterns to maximize our clients' chances.

Everest offers more predictable weather windows, particularly in the pre-monsoon season (April-May). The jet stream typically lifts higher during this period, creating 5-10 day windows of manageable conditions at the summit.

Dhaulagiri's weather is more fickle. Its position in the Annapurna region creates localized storm systems that can develop rapidly. We've found the post-monsoon season (September-October) sometimes offers more stable conditions on Dhaulagiri, though with colder temperatures.

Wind is the greatest enemy on both peaks. Everest summit winds can exceed 100mph during non- window periods, while Dhaulagiri's ridges create wind-tunnel effects that can make climbing impossible even when skies appear clear from below.

Expedition Duration and Time Commitment

Time is always a consideration for our clients. Everest demands a longer overall commitment - typically 60-65 days from arrival in Kathmandu to departure. The approach trek to Base Camp takes about 10 days, and we need more acclimatization rotations due to the extreme altitude.

Dhaulagiri expeditions run shorter, usually 45-55 days total. The approach is more direct, though often more challenging. What you save in time, you spend in technical effort.

Recovery periods differ too. We've noticed climbers bouncing back faster after Dhaulagiri despite its technical nature. Everest's extreme altitude seems to take a deeper physiological toll, with many climbers reporting fatigue and respiratory issues weeks after descending.

Making Your Decision: Practical Considerations

Honest Assessment of Your Experience Level

We've seen it too many times - climbers with stars in their eyes and not enough miles on their boots. Before even considering Everest or Dhaulagiri, take a hard look at your climbing resume. Have you summited peaks over 6000m? Spent nights at extreme altitude? Mastered technical ice climbing and crevasse rescue?

Dhaulagiri demands technical prowess while Everest requires stamina and mental fortitude in the Death Zone. Neither mountain forgives overconfidence or inexperience. We recommend at least three 6000m+ expeditions and one 7000m+ climb before attempting either mountain.

Training Requirements and Preparation Timeline

Training for these giants isn't a three-month gym program. We're talking about a solid 12-18 month commitment. Your regimen should include:

• Endurance training (long-distance hiking with heavy packs)
• Strength conditioning (focusing on legs and core)
  
• Technical skills practice (ice climbing, fixed rope techniques) 
• Altitude acclimatization trips

Dhaulagiri climbers need extra technical training, while Everest aspirants must build exceptional endurance. Plan multiple acclimatization climbs in the year before your expedition.

Budget Realities and Financial Planning

The hard truth about 8000ers? They're expensive. Here's what you're looking at:

We recommend having a 10% contingency fund for unexpected expenses. Many climbers spend years saving for these expeditions.

Personal Climbing Goals and Motivations

Why do you want to climb an 8000er? Be brutally honest. If it's for Instagram fame, reconsider. These mountains demand authentic respect.

For those seeking technical challenge and solitude, Dhaulagiri might be your mountain. If you've dreamed of standing on top of the world and don't mind sharing the experience with others, Everest could be calling.

Long-term Mountaineering Career Planning

Think beyond just one peak. How does this climb fit into your broader mountaineering journey? We often suggest climbers follow a progression:

1. Multiple 6000m peaks
2. A less technical 7000m peak
3. Cho Oyu or Manaslu as first 8000ers
4. Dhaulagiri for technical climbers or Everest for those ready for the ultimate altitude challenge 
5. Other 8000ers based on specific interests

This measured approach builds skills, experience, and acclimatization capabilities that increase your chances of success and survival on any 8000m peak you choose.

Everest Sherpa Expeditions: How We Support Your 8000er Journey

Our Specialized Climbing Programs for Both Mountains

We've crafted distinct programs for Everest and Dhaulagiri that address each mountain's unique challenges. For Everest climbers, we focus on managing the crowds and optimizing your time in the Death Zone with carefully planned summit windows. Our Dhaulagiri programs emphasize technical skills and self-sufficiency on this more remote peak.

Both expeditions include:

• Personalized equipment consultations 
• Acclimatization schedules tailored to your physiology 
• 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratios on summit day 
• Supplementary oxygen management strategies

Safety Protocols and Success Strategies

Safety isn't just a buzzword for us—it's built into everything we do. We maintain constant satellite communication across both mountains and position extra oxygen caches along the routes. Our team conducts daily health checks, monitoring your oxygen saturation and signs of altitude sickness.

What sets us apart is our flexibility. Weather shifts? We'll adjust. Feeling weak? We'll slow down. Need more acclimatization? We'll provide it. We've developed contingency plans for every scenario, from sudden storms to equipment failures.

Pre-Expedition Training and Assessment Services

Before you even set foot on the mountain, we help you prepare. Our pre-expedition training includes: 

• Virtual fitness assessments with high-altitude specialists
• Customized training plans starting 6-12 months before your climb
• Technical skills workshops in Nepal prior to basecamp
• Medical screenings and personalized nutrition planning

We're brutally honest during these assessments. If you're not ready, we'll tell you—and help you get there.

Customized Support Based on Your Experience Level

First-timer on 8000ers? We'll pair you with our most patient, communicative Sherpas. Seasoned climber? We'll give you the space you need while keeping safety non-negotiable.

For beginners, we provide extra training days on the lower slopes and more detailed briefings. For veterans, we offer expedited acclimatization schedules and advanced technical challenges.

Every expedition member gets exactly what they need—no cookie-cutter approaches here. Whether it's Everest's notorious bottlenecks or Dhaulagiri's technical ridges, we adapt our support to match your skills and experience.

Choosing between Mount Everest and Dhaulagiri for your first 8000er expedition is a significant decision that requires careful consideration of several factors. While Everest offers the prestige of standing on the world's highest point and has more established routes with extensive support systems, Dhaulagiri presents a less crowded, more technically challenging alternative that many seasoned climbers find more rewarding. Your choice should ultimately align with your experience level, technical skills, budget, and personal mountaineering goals.

Whichever mountain you set your sights on, Everest Sherpa Expeditions is committed to providing you with the expertise, support, and guidance needed to maximize your chances of success while ensuring your safety. Our experienced team understands the unique challenges of both peaks and can help tailor your expedition to match your abilities and aspirations. Take the first step toward your 8000er achievement by connecting with our team to discuss which mountain might be the best starting point for your high-altitude mountaineering journey.

If you need any further information, please contact us by email: [email protected], Phone: +977- 980 195 6248 (WhatsApp).